Camino Norte day 20: Avilés to San Esteban (22.0km)

I started the day an hour before sunrise to do a double stage, but ended up doing just the normal stage. Right after Piedras Blancas, I took my socks off and checked my feet properly. Something seemed to be bothering me and I was not sure what it was.

Apparently, I had a blister. Several days ago already… It had broken from washing and walking. Dirt had gotten into the area and built up an infection. Another blister had appeared later and that one was also broken. The infection had already developed a smell, which means a bacterial infection is underway.

With all this new knowledge, I sat down on a bench a handful of kilometers before Soto del Barco. As I sat there, amazed by the gorgeous scenery, the main priority was clear – I needed to find a pharmacy and get this problem fixed. Thankfully, Soto del Barco had one and it was open.

The second priority was to find accommodation. The closest albegue on the trail was in Muros de Nalón. It was full. Booking showed only very expensive accommodations left. I called an albergue in the area that was 3km off the trail. Thankfully, albergue Buen Camino in San Esteban still had places. It is actually the nicest albergue I have in all Camino.

I heard that in the Summer there is actually an option to cross the river by boat. That would have been a cool experience. I walked around the river for several kilometers on both sides. Walking on the busy car road with no safe area was not that fun.

I got a free drink when arriving at the albergue. I paid for dinner in the evening, so everything is set. No need for useless walking around. I will start off before the sunrise again tomorrow to avoid heat as much as possible. This way, less sweat and dirt will enter the wounded area.

I expected today and tomorrow to be huge hiking days. My mind is slowly adjusting to a new reality. I will do a few smaller days, book places ahead and then keep a steady pace into Santiago. No more crazy 40+km days, unfortunately.

When I was dealing with the initial shock of how bad the infection was, all kinds of negative scenarios went through my head. I worked through what I came here to do and what is important to me.

I will not be walking into Finisterre during this Camino. Seeing the lighthouse every time is not critical to my journey. Finishing the Norte on foot into Santigo is what I came here to do. I will adjust everything accordingly.

I am suffering an unexpected setback, but that does not mean I can’t enjoy the rest of the Camino. Slow and steady finishes the race.

I will now spend more evenings in towns and villages on the Norte, instead of rushing to old familiar roads. Maybe it all worked out for the better, even this way? We shall see.

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